Who doesn’t love monsters? In Maramureș, winter summons one on steel wheels, crawling into the station at Vișeu de Sus with the stubborn dignity of a relic that never learned how to die. The Mocănița exhales clouds of steam like a tired animal, soot clinging to its rivets, snow swallowing the noise of the crowd. The smell is coal, frost, old grease, and wool coats soaked in patience. This is Romania unvarnished, breathing heavily in the cold. The line was never meant to be charming. Its narrow g
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